"New Lifetime Warranty"
Defroster timers are a common cause of refrigerator cooling problems, especially in older or mid-range models. These timers control the automatic defrost cycle that melts frost buildup on the evaporator coils.
Defrost timers are often found in models manufactured between the late 1990s and early 2010s. Many popular brands such as Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire, Maytag, and Kenmore used mechanical defrost timers before switching to adaptive defrost control boards in newer units.
If you own an older refrigerator from any of these brands, and it’s not cooling properly, running constantly, or building up frost behind the rear panel, a faulty defrost timer could be the reason.
The refrigerator runs continuously without cycling off.
Heavy frost or ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer.
Clicking noises but no defrosting occurs.
Manual advancement of the timer temporarily restores cooling.
If you have or know how to use a multimeter, you can test for continuity across the timer contacts to confirm if it’s failed. However, always unplug the refrigerator before performing any tests.
Because electrical diagnosis involves safety risks, if you’re unsure about handling live circuits or identifying the correct contacts, it’s best to call an expert refrigeration technician. A qualified technician can confirm the issue, replace the timer if needed, and ensure your refrigerator’s cooling system is running properly.
Book a refrigerator diagnostic service in Oklahoma City with Here’s Why Refrigerator Repair OKC. Our experts will explain the issue, provide repair options, and restore your fridge to peak performance — fast, reliable, and professional.
Call 405-295-5252 or book online for same-day service.
This usually happens due to dirty condenser coils, a failed evaporator fan, or a faulty thermostat. If airflow is restricted, the cooling system struggles to maintain temperature.
Frost buildup often indicates a defrost timer, heater, or thermostat malfunction. The defrost system prevents ice accumulation that blocks airflow.
Noises can come from a worn evaporator fan motor, compressor, or vibrating water line. Persistent noise means a mechanical part may be failing.
Leaks are usually caused by a blocked defrost drain, cracked water line, or faulty inlet valve. Check the drain pan and tubing for clogs or damage.
Common causes include a frozen fill tube, defective water inlet valve, or a faulty ice maker motor module.
If your fridge never shuts off, it might be due to a faulty defrost timer, dirty coils, or a bad temperature sensor that prevents cycling.
A stuck damper control or broken evaporator fan can block cold air from reaching the refrigerator section.
A defective thermostat or control board may cause overcooling. Adjusting temperature settings rarely solves this if a sensor is bad.
Odors can linger from bacteria inside drip pans or air vents. Cleaning coils, gaskets, and hidden trays can help.
Usually a burned-out bulb, faulty door switch, or electrical connection issue. Always unplug before replacing components.
These sounds may signal the compressor starting and stopping frequently—often a relay, start capacitor, or compressor issue.
A frozen water line, clogged filter, or broken actuator switch are the most common causes.
Humidity and warm air entering through worn gaskets cause moisture buildup. Check seals for cracks or gaps.
A surge may trip the overload relay or damage the main control board. Unplugging for 5 minutes sometimes resets the unit.
This can indicate a failing thermostat, control board, or compressor overload protector. It’s best to have a technician diagnose the issue to prevent further damage.